Building your first limited modified

I am writing this for first time limited modified racers and builders. I have been a racer and car builder since 1965 and I know how hard it is to build a car when you have not done it before. First if you are new to the sport and this is your first modified race car then you are going to have a  learning curve the first year. Don't try to build a high dollar car for your first one. Unless have some experience racing a dirt car you are not going to go out and win races your first year. So save some money and just build a safe dependable limited modified with out the extras, who knows you might not like racing. First off are you mechanically inclined, can you weld or do know someone that can, do you have a place to work, do you have the tools? If the answer is no then your better go buy a car race ready.

Step 1:

Decide if you want to build your own chassis, this can save you some money. You can buy a ready built chassis for approximately $1500-$2000 click on this link to view a If you are going to build your own chassis find a Mid-size GM 1978-1987 car with metric full frames only with 108” wheel base as per OEM specifications of stock. You can find 1981- 1984 Buick Regal's cheap, you don't need motor and trans. make sure frame is not bent. The best way is to turn the car up on it's side, remove gas tank, remove master cylinder, gas lines, save brake lines and unbolt the frame from body. Make sure you are not going have the car or frame fall on you. Take the frame and clean it up. Then you can remove the front suspension parts, rear end, brake lines and save all the parts. Set the frame on jack stands on a level surface. With a cutting torch cut off all body mounts, other brackets you do not need, do not cut any suspension or shock mounts. Grind and clean where you cut off mounts. Front frame horns can be cut off in front of the steering box and idler arm. Rear frame rails may be cut off behind upper  shock mounts. All frame bolt holes must remain in stock location. Wheelbase will be checked with a minimum of 107” and maximum of 109”.

Read these frame, engine location,  roll cage rules before you cut or build anything

Step 2:

Now you know the chassis rules, frame is clean, on jack stands and you are ready to install roll cage, frame bracing, and engine plate mounts. Do not try to relocate upper control arm mounts, this has to be done in a jig. You can click here to look at a complete limited modified chassis.

Step 3:

If you don't have a tube bender or a source for a cage kit I would look at Speedways Motors modified cage and frame kit for approx. $680.00, you can't use the rear frame clip but it will get every thing else you need. Speedway has bumpers and nerf bars. Like I said at the beginning you need a Mig welder and a person that can weld, this is not the place to cut corners you life may depend on it.

2004 Lmtd. Mod. Body

BODY:
A. All body measurements simplified:

• a) 23" maximum

• b) 40" maximum

• c) 67" minimum

• d) 31" minimum/48" maximum

• e) 98" minimum/121" maximum

• f) 41" maximum

• g) 58" maximum

• h) 28" maximum

• i) 55" minimum/67" maximum

• j) 77" maximum

• k) 31" maximum

• l.) 35" maximum

• m) 9" minimum/15" maximum

• n) 32"x32" minimum/53"x53" maximum

• o.) hood scoops optional

• p.) Do NOT add or subtract 3" from any of the above measurements (as was previously stated). That math has already been done for you, and the +/- 3" is now included in the above measurements.

B. Roof rear sail panels are allowed one 90 degree bend along the top edge of the sail panel, but must be less than 1” wide. Gremlin style roofs not allowed.
C. No more than 6" of total rake allowed on the body deck.  A maximum of 3" of rake (of the 6" total) is allowed in the door section and a maximum of 3" of rake is allowed in the quarter panel section. If you keep the door section level, then you are only allowed 3" of rake in the quarter panel section.
D. Minimum ride height is 5" from ground to side frame rails.
E. Plastic body panels and plastic filler panels are not allowed.
F. No convertibles, unless special race.
G. Cars must have full deck interior from one side of the body to the other. Decks must be aluminum or sheet metal.

FENDERS:
Quarter panels must be 90 degrees to the ground, with a maximum of a 45 degree bend 4" from the bottom of the doors and quarters and 2" on top.

FIREWALL:
Must be metal or aluminum with minimum sized holes for throttle, etc. Firewall must be sealed from engine compartment.

FLOOR:
Must be metal or aluminum. Must cover entire driver’s cockpit to front edge of seat.

BUMPERS:
A. Two (2) bar front bumper is mandatory.  Maximum size is = 1-1/2" X .095".
B. One single bar rear bumper is required.  Maximum size is = 1-3/4". The required fuel cell protection bar (maximum size = 1-1/2" X .095") may be attached to the rear bumper.

HOOD:
A. Must cover completely the  top of engine and radiator.
B. Must extend from the nose piece to the deck.
C. Hood may be made of metal, aluminum, or fiberglass.
D. Hood must provide a seal to the top of  the engine compartment.
E. Cannot cover side of engine more than 5".
F. Hood scoops okay.

SPOILER:
Rear spoiler is allowed, with a maximum use of material of 15", measured along the spoiler, from the deck to the top, not straight up and down.  A maximum of four braces are allowed, one on each side, measuring a maximum of the angled height of the spoiler x 24" long.  Only one spoiler is allowed.  Aluminum or Lexan okay.  Spoiler may not go beyond back bumper.

Updated: 12-28-2004