Limited Modified rear End

I have run Chev. rear ends in modifieds before and never had to much trouble. Axels all not the best but will work ok. If you get a hard hit on one it is best to change it. All-ways carry spare axels with you. If you need to save money then run the rear end with chev. axels and you can run drum brakes (you may have to have brake shoes built to have good brakes and use a c-clip eliminator kit) stock brakes get hot and do not work good after a few laps. You need a good brake shoe. You can put disk brakes on the rear end with a kit from speedway motors for about $280.00 or there is some rotors for chev. s10 that will work by modifying axel flange. You can change to Ford axels but this is a job and you best have some experience doing this. I would use chev. axels with standard bolt pattern 4-3/4".

You can lock the rear end by welding the spider gears or use a mini spool approx. $90.00, if you weld the spider gears take carrier out and remove ring gear. Take spider gears and pin out. If small spider gears have a spacer under them take them out. put the gears back in carrier and put pin back in. I used 7018 welding rod to weld spiders, weld the gears real good. Clean carrier and welds real good, no slag on welds.

You can pick your rear end ratio to go with Trans. to get final drive ratio you going to run (5.88 to 6.50). I would stay around 5.88 to 6.20 if my engines were not real high dollar, will be good on most tracks. Rear Gear setup when installing new gears is very important.

Th 350 trans. (Trans. Gear Ratio X Rear Gear Ratio = Final Drive Ratio)

Power glide Trans. (This is the lowest cost and works great)

Power glide Trans. Planetary gear ratio from TCI

GM Rear Gear Ratio

Updated: 12-2004